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By Les Eatwell:
With meat loaf, the starting point should always be the finest in ground beef. And I shouldn’t have to tell you that. That last statement was delivered with an all-knowing sneer. My friend Carl LaFong, gourmand and self-appointed culinary expert, had decided to depart from his usual attempts at haute cuisine and prepare that staple of 1950s American dinner tables, meatloaf. The catalyst had been a discussion (argument) about the origins of middle-class American dinner basics. Meatloaf, LaFong had opined, was only a variation on French country pate. And, prepared with care, ingredients selected carefully, it could be an elegant addition to anyone’s table. I was doubtful, since my Sunday-dinner background included a multitude of meatloaves assembled with the idea of stretching ground cuts from the butcher’s scrap pile into service for eight. Meatloaf studded with very visible wads of lumpy white bread. Or large flavorless mounds with the volume […]