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Okay, it’s true. About the time of the birth of LikeTheDew, I set out to write a series on Southern funeral foods. So, my timing was off. I failed to realize that the blossoming dogwoods and their blanket of snowy petals would elicit thoughts of life, rather than death. It was spring, after all. Still, I persisted in sharing at least a couple of funeral food pieces. Then came the azaleas and daffodils, and their explosions of rosy pink and yellow. (My near-sightedness automatically turns all floral landscapes into splendid impressionist paintings.)

The violet hydrangeas have blossomed on our balcony. Our basil, chives and Meyer lemon trees are basking in the sun. And, as I see from my window, the steady stream of picnic baskets in-hand headed to the park, I am convinced to postpone the series on food to die for. I offer this confession, despite my firm belief that funeral food is among the most life giving of our Southern traditions, and remains (so to speak), a command performance, despite the season. Possibly, in the fall as the leaves flutter away from their trees and the green grass gives way to a colorless cloth over the park, I will share more stories and recipes of sympathy and send-off.

Rather, let us speak of picnics… under magnificent trees with generous leafy canopies or alongside mountain streams. Perhaps you can simply spread a quilt in your own backyard and pretend to be anywhere — from the golden isles of the Georgia Coast, to Provence and the golden light of the South of France. It’s not so big a stretch as it may seem since the people of Provence, like our own Southerners, know a good tomato when they see one, even if they stuff it with olives rather than Duke’s Mayonnaise.
Prep these dishes for a gastronomic getaway. Serve with a chilled Viognier, which will transport you farther North and closer to Lyon.

South of France-Provençal Picnic Menu

Goat Cheese and Pesto Bruschetta

Tapenade stuffed cherry tomatoes

Roasted vegetables tossed in Dijon Vinaigrette

Raspberry tart

Goat Cheese & Pesto Bruschetta

The Cheese Layer
3.5 ounces of goat cheese
2 tablespoons cream cheese (can use fat free)
1 tablespoon of milk
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan or Romano cheese
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
2 tablespoons softened butter

Place all ingredients in a food processor and blend until thoroughly mixed. Set aside.

The Pesto Layer (or cheat with your favorite prepared pesto)
2 cups, cleaned, then dried, fresh basil leaves
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
1/4 cup of pine nuts
1/4 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1/2 tsp. lemon juice
1/8 of a cup extra-virgin olive oil

Chop the pesto in a food processor until it is finely diced, but not a paste.  Add garlic, pine nuts and Parmesan. Process again until ingredients are well mixed. In a small bowl, whisk the lemon juice into the olive oil. Pour slowly into the food processor while pulsing until the pesto is smooth enough to spread. Add a sprinkle of sugar and/or salt to taste and pulse again. Set aside.

The Sun-dried Tomato Layer
1 cup sun-dried tomatoes
Water to cover the tomatoes
1 tsp. olive oil

Place tomatoes in a pan and cover with water. Add olive oil and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and drain. Mince cooled tomatoes and set aside.

Bruschetta Prep
Large French Baguette
1/4 cup of olive oil
1/4 cup of lightly toasted pine nuts.

Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Slice bread, diagonally, one inch thick. Spread olive oil lightly over one side of bread and toast on cookie sheet until lightly browned. Turn and repeat.

Assembly
While bread is slightly warm, spread the cheese layer over each slice about 1/8th of an inch thick. Set aside until the cheese hardens a bit, then spread the pesto layer, also 1/8th of an inch thick. Sprinkle chopped sun-dried tomatoes generously over the pesto. Sprinkle with pine nuts. Place on serving dish and cover with aluminum foil to help maintain crispness. Makes 24-30 slices. (Most people can eat at least 3.)

Tapenade Stuffed Cherry Tomatoes

About 1/2 pound good Niçoise or Calamata black olives, pitted*
2 cloves of crushed garlic
1/2 teaspoon Anchovy paste**
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped fresh rosemary
1/2 teaspoon of fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup of extra virgin olive oil
1 package of cleaned and dried large cherry tomatoes
6 fresh basil leaves for garnish

Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Place all the ingredients, except the olive oil and tomatoes in a food processor and process to a paste. Slowly pour in half the olive oil, while pulsing.  Taste for consistency and flavor before adding more. (You may not need it). Transfer tapenade in a sealed container and refrigerate until ready to stuff in the tomatoes. (Leftover tapenade can be covered with a thin layer of olive oil and covered tightly. It will stay fresh for at least a week in the refrigerator and can be used as a spread on toasted pita bread or crackers.)
Scoop out the center of the tomato, leaving enough of the inside that the sides remain strong so that the tomato can stand. (The serrated ends of a grapefruit spoon work perfectly for scooping cherry tomatoes.) Fill the tomatoes with tapenade and bake for 10 minutes or just until warm. Garnish with basil for a sweeter taste. (Chiffonade in to thin strands and top the tomatoes.)
* Canned olives can be substituted for half of the required olives. The intense flavor of the better olives will prevail over the substitution.
**One anchovy or a tablespoon of drained tuna fish may be substituted.

Roasted Vegetables in Dijon Vinaigrette

8 small Red Bliss potatoes cut in half
1 large zucchini, sliced in 1/2 inch rounds
2 yellow squash, sliced in 1/2 inch rounds
20 string beans, ends snapped
1 bunch of green onions, trimmed
2 garlic cloves, cut in 1/4’s
Salt to taste
2 tablespoons of olive oil
1 roasted red pepper, peeled and sliced

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. Place all vegetables (except red pepper) and garlic in a skillet with water to cover. Parboil gently for 5 minutes. Drain, reserving garlic. Spread olive oil in roasting pan and place the drained vegetables in a roasting pan (including the red pepper). Sprinkle with salt, to taste. Bake for 7 minutes, turn, and bake 7 more or until vegetables are crisp. Transfer to a serving bowl and toss with vinaigrette.

Vinaigrette
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1/4 cup Balsamic Vinegar
Garlic from above
1 finely minced shallot
1/2 teaspoon of ground thyme
1/4 cup of good olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Combine all ingredients except olive oil and salt and pepper in a small bowl. Whisking constantly, slowly add the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Toss with vegetables. Serves six-eight.

Fresh Raspberry Tart

Pastry Custard for One Tart
1 and 1/2 cups of 2% fat milk
3 egg yolks
¾ cup of sugar
¼ flour, plus 1 tablespoon
1 tablespoon of vanilla

In a heavy saucepan (or double boiler), heat milk on medium-low until almost scalding (when bubbles form around the sides). Meanwhile, whisk egg yolks in a large heatproof bowl, then add sugar and flour. Mix thoroughly. When milk is ready, pour slowly over the sugar mixture, while whisking constantly to remove lumps. Reduce heat to low and return mix to saucepan. Whisk continuously until custard thickens and heavily coats a wooden spoon. Remove from heat. Stir in vanilla, cover and chill.

The Pastry

Use your favorite piecrust recipe or a refrigerated piecrust. Roll out crust according to instructions and place in a rectangular, or circular tart pan. Spread crust evenly up the sides. Fill bottom of the tart with pie weights or beans and bake according to instructions for empty piecrust. Remove from oven and cool.

Raspberry Topping

2 pints fresh raspberries
1/2 cup of seedless raspberry jam or fruit spread
1 tablespoon of butter

Clean raspberries thoroughly, but carefully, in order to maintain shape. Spread one layer deep over a double-thick paper towel to dry – drying them well will prevent the raspberries from leaking on the custard.

Assembly
Heat jam and butter in microwave for 30 seconds. Spread a layer of jam over the bottom of the cooled crust. Fill crust with chilled pastry custard. Cover the custard with the raspberries, then, using a pastry brush, gently paint raspberries with warm jam. Wrap and chill until serving time. When ready to serve, lift the bottom up and out of the tart pan. Voila! Serves six to eight.

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2 Responses to “Summer Has Taken the Life Out of Funeral Food”

1. Billy Howard says:

   June 11, 2009 at 8:56 am

   Your writing comes off like a sweet conversation, your voice lilting over the words. Reading your stories is like relaxing with a friend, and I am hoping my wife finds time to make some of these recipes!

   Reply
2. Lindy Lou says:

   June 11, 2009 at 9:34 am

   Billy is right, your fine descriptive words made me want to shut down my computer, grab a basket, head for the park and lay in the grass. And, now I’m also starving for one of the bruschettas!!

   Reply

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